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-   -   Hatsan Edge/Striker/1000 and Webley Spector trigger Mod (http://airgunsforum.org/showthread.php?t=501)

SteveP 02-05-2017 05:21 PM

Hatsan Edge/Striker/1000 and Webley Spector trigger Mod
 
4 Attachment(s)
Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know...Why would anyone wanna buy one of these. I did, I have 4 Edge rifles, 3 Vortex and 1 Springer and a Webley Spector .177 and have found for being inexpensive guns, they're actually pretty solidly built, seriously accurate when you find the right pellet and the FPS ratings are gotten using real lead pellets unlike most companies that use the lightest weight alloy pellets they can get to jack their FPS numbers to try and impress you and they make real nice pesting rifles.
That being said, the triggers leave a bit to be desired but the modifications to make them better are very simple and very inexpensive so here goes:
The screw controlling the 2nd stage is in the very back of the trigger block and from the factory is an M3x5 and honestly doesn't give you any real room for adjustment as it doesn't go in far enough. You can fix this by going to your local Ace or Valu and getting an M3x8 .50 pitch allen head screw, which will cost you all of .23 cents. I say allen head because once you have the rifle back in the stock, it's easier to slide an allen wrench in there to adjust a bit if need be than trying to get a phillips head screw driver in there.
My personal recommendation is to install the new screw all the way in, then back it off one full turn and a 1/4. All the way in and you end up with either a serious hair trigger or a rifle you can't safely cock. Now put the rifle back in the stock, grab some pellets and your allen wrench and head outside. Cock and load and pointing the rifle in a safe direction, bump it on the ground 7 or 8 times to make sure the rifle won't go off by itself if it gets bumped or dropped.
As long as it doesn't, you can start taking test shots to check the 2nd stage pull and if need be, adjust more or less. Personally, I'd only adjust an 1/8 turn at a time and do the bump test after every adjustment to make sure you don't overadjust and end up with that hair trigger.

They also have a longgg first stage and that can also be fixed several easy and very inexpensive ways. Remember that spring end you worked around installing the new 2nd stage screw?? The other end of that spring rides behind the trigger and pushes it back out after you fire. There are several ways you can shorten it:
You can squeeze that spring a bit so it doesn't press the trigger back out quite as far. Another trick I've tried with good success is to see where that spring presses against the backside of the trigger and put some JB Quick Weld in that spot. It hardens in 10 minutes or so and I fill that channel behind the trigger about half way and it lessens that first stage by half.
I've also seen where some owners drill and tap a hole in the top of the trigger and install a set screw to push that spring off the back side of the trigger which will let you adjust for more or less if you want to but doing it this way means taking the rifle out of the stock to make the adjustment or drilling a hole in the trigger guard so you can slide an allen wrench in there to do it.
The included pics show where that 2nd stage screw is in the trigger pack, the difference in size between the factory screw and the replacement I got from Ace and that spring behind the trigger.

Hopefully, this helps a few Hatsan Edge/Striker/1000 or Webley Spector owners make their triggers a little better. They really are decent rifles with power and accuracy for not a lot of money.


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